With its cobbled walkways, striped awnings, vibrant window displays and sheer eclectic nature, Nanaimo鈥檚 Old City Quarter has always been one of my favourite places.

Nestled on a sharp incline between Fitzwilliam and Wentworth streets, it鈥檚 home to dozens of owner-operated shops and restaurants, as well as more than 70 services running the gamut from law offices to tattoo artists to mobile device repair. Some of the buildings are more than a century old, and between the old stone and the spreading maple trees, it鈥檚 always felt a little like stepping into a different world.

Growing up in the north end of the city, it was always a treat to make the trip into downtown and wander through the little shops, never knowing what I might find.

Now, as autumn creeps in with its golden hues and hints of crisp air to come, the Quarter is a perfect place to spend a September morning. Though it鈥檚 been quite a few years since I鈥檝e done the back to school rush 鈥� don鈥檛 ask how many! 鈥� I always get a little thrill at the prospect of getting a few new treats for myself. And with a knitting addiction that鈥檚 only grown stronger over the last decade, it鈥檚 inevitable that one of my first stops is at the yarn shop in the Quarter鈥檚 Heritage Mews.

鈥淭he sign should say 鈥� and Therapy,鈥欌�� laughs Darlene Rogers, an employee who joined the shop鈥檚 fibre family a year ago. 鈥淧eople come in and just hang out. We all sit at the table and talk and knit.鈥�

Cozy is the operative word here. The walls are covered in cubbyholes reaching up to the ceiling, housing silks, mohair, bamboo and even possum skeins. Just the thing to add to my ever-growing basket of yarns at home. For those interested in learning more techniques and skills, the shop hosts drop-in and scheduled knitting classes, and Rogers teaches classes in weaving and spinning in the fall and winter.

Right next door is , another longtime favourite spot. A treasure trove of new age and metaphysical goodies, it鈥檚 been around for 16 years, and is one of the best places to find quality beeswax candles. Incense drifts out to meet me as I duck under a string of prayer flags and pop inside to browse. As well as other mediums, in-store practitioners offer tarot and Turkish coffee readings either by drop-in or appointment. I鈥檓 tempted, but I鈥檒l keep my future a surprise for the time being.

Wandering down towards Wesley Street, there are a handful of eateries along the way. serves Italian fare, including pizza from Nanaimo鈥檚 first imported wood-fired oven. is open for lunch and dinner, offering exquisite Japanese cuisine. The sushi and bento boxes here are 鈥渟uperb,鈥� remarks a passerby.

has 鈥渇ast food that鈥檚 good for you,鈥� says owner Tracy Collis. It鈥檚 known for its Creamy Oh So Dreamy tomato soup, she tells me. Just the thing to warm up on a cool, fall day. And Sweet Somethings confectionery has 鈥渟omething鈥� for everyone, including homemade waffle cones and the world-famous Nanaimo Bar.

In the upper half of the Quarter, down a glass-covered walkway, the tantalizing smell of freshly baked waffles snares more than a few people, but I鈥檓 heading for an old stand-by: . This caf茅 has been here for as long as I can remember, and is as funky as ever. Local art adorns the spot, both on the walls and beneath the glass tops on the tables from Bocca鈥檚 youngest patrons. Meyer Lemon Tea in hand, I sit outside amidst sparrows hopping from table to table and watch the shoppers. Crispin Shoes has an impressive display of adorable boots while has dozens of unique consignment finds.

Heading out to the Fitzwilliam border of the Quarter, there鈥檚 a line of shops going down the hill. There鈥檚 boutique fashion at , outfits (and some super fun toys) for your little ones at and entertainment galore at the . is a perennial favourite no matter the season, and it offers both vegan and gluten-free sweets. And at the bottom corner, the newest addition to the block: .

I am immediately charmed by this high-end consignment shop, both by the enviable and fabulous collection of feathered and beribboned hats, and the handsome Mountain Bernese that greets me at the door.

鈥淗e鈥檚 still a puppy,鈥� says owner Brianne Wilson with a smile as she ruffles his fur.

鈥淧rinceton鈥� lies down on the cool floor and watches as people drift in and out of the store. Wilson has only been open for six months, but she鈥檚 found the Old City Quarter a welcoming and fun spot, and her inventory certainly brings people in.

There are pieces by Frank Lyman and Joseph Ribkoff. A particularly pretty Coach purse beckons to me from the window display. Fantastic shoes are everywhere. This feels like the place to find my September not-quite-back-to-school treat.

It could take a full day to explore all the shops and sights in the , but though I鈥檝e only visited a handful, the rumbling in my belly is telling me to find my way back to some of those delectable smells. It鈥檚 lunchtime!

-Story by Angela Cowan

Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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