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Indigenous food sovereignty movement reclaiming wellness, sense of identity

Indigenous health dietitian says goal is to restore decision making power through food supply
26670605_web1_170707-BPD-M-Salmon-BBQ
A traditional salmon barbecue on Newcastle Island near Nanaimo. Black Press File Photo

Food is about more than what people eat.

For Indigenous Peoples on Vancouver Island, food affects physical, emotional and mental health, as well as Indigenous identity. However, decisions about food systems are often out of their hands. In an era of truth and reconciliation, fixes for these broken links can have a deep effect on peoples鈥 lives.

Island Health Indigenous Health Dietitian Jessie Newman says that food sovereignty is 鈥渁bout Nations reclaiming decision making power within the food system.鈥

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鈥淚 make sure that I鈥檓 having conversations with people in leadership, with knowledge keepers, with Elders. Any time decisions are made we need to have Indigenous Peoples at the table,鈥 she said. 鈥淓very Nation has different obstacles and challenges and finding those out is important.鈥

Newman is Haida, Heiltsuk, and Kwakwaka鈥檞akw. She knows how traditional foods can link to ancestors, heal, and help rekindle the sense of identity that many Indigenous people struggle with.

鈥淭he greatest benefit is that they really connect us to our ancestors and loved ones who have passed,鈥 she said. 鈥淚t鈥檚 quite emotional, especially for me. Seafoods really give me that feeling of a connection to my father who has passed, and my uncles and my grandfather. All of those memories that I have around those foods are really special.鈥

However, thanks to the residential school system, many of those links are broken.

鈥淚f you go back to residential school and that disconnect from culture, a lot of people don鈥檛 have the knowledge of how to harvest our foods,鈥 she said. 鈥淭he lack of knowledge around cultural practices is one of the biggest issues within our communities.

鈥淭hat really speaks to identity as well. A lot of Indigenous people really struggle with a loss of identity or a lack of identity due to that disconnect from culture brought about through residential school鈥 When you鈥檙e eating these kinds of foods, it gives me the sense of 鈥榯his is who I am and this is what I鈥檓 meant to be eating鈥︹ Our foods are so powerful.鈥

鈥淎 lot of Indigenous people, they鈥檝e been through so much trauma. Their mental health might not be the best,鈥 she said. 鈥淚f I can create situations where our People have greater access to their foods, then I am doing something positive that is going to have an impact.

Food sovereignty has increased throughout the region, but there is no one-size-fits-all solution. Every community has a different situation and different needs. The Kwakwaka鈥檞akw communities are displaced from their traditional territories, making access to traditional foods difficult.

鈥淭he fact that none of these nations are actually located on their traditional territories where they would be harvesting these foods is probably the biggest barrier,鈥 Newman said.

鈥淎nother big barrier is that a lot of Nations might not have the money to focus on this. The way that funds are dispersed into communities are like 鈥榶ou need to spend this money on this, you need to spend this money on that.鈥 Some Nations find or redistribute funding to hire knowledge keepers to do work around food sovereignty and food security,鈥 she said.

鈥淣ot every Nation does this or has the capacity to do it, but there are some Nations in the northern area like in Tsa鈥橷ana where they鈥檝e actually taken the initiative through funding from our Indigenous Health program and hired somebody. They really honoured the knowledge of the local food champions to do the work. If every community has somebody doing that, then we would be much better off.

When it comes down to it, Newman says her goal is for Indigenous Peoples to have access and control over their food systems.

鈥淭here are so many reasons it鈥檚 not happening. Some of it is climate change, some of it is environmental. What would really work is if our government gave us access to our land back and gave us control over our land, how it鈥檚 managed and how the resources are managed,鈥 she said.

鈥淲e鈥檇 have access to our traditional territories and be able to harvest our foods whenever we want, and manage it in a way that will be sustainable鈥 that鈥檚 the ultimate goal.鈥

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marc.kitteringham@campbellrivermirror.com

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Marc Kitteringham

About the Author: Marc Kitteringham

I joined Black press in early 2020, writing about the environment, housing, local government and more.
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